Lee continues to shake up Burberry with big reveal for spring 24

So what do we get from Daniel Lee this time? An evolution of the Burberry style, a reaffirmation that this is a house founded on outerwear, and another powerful reminder of its British heritage.What this all means is that “the focus remains on British wardrobe archetypes, cut closer to the body, on British motifs and the British outdoors”.

The house check has been “reimagined from the archive” and is celebrated here. But there’s nothing so banal as just a rehash of said check. Instead it’s anything but ordinary with checks that are blurred, warped (with more waves than Brighton beach), or given a colour makeover in zingy lemon sherbet.

Not that the wider collection is big on colour — instead, black and white rule, although the presence of the aforementioned lemon (plus rhubarb, khaki, and knight blue mean it’s not a completely colour-free zone).Burberry’s key key pieces include trench coats, car coats, duffle coats, blanket capes, quilts, parkas, field, aviator and bomber jackets. And Puffer coats come in leather with Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) details. It may be for spring, but as we said, this is a company that made its name helping its customers wrap up warmly against the British weather. Moving back indoors, a kilt elongated into a strapless dress, pants whose hems are finished with scarf fringing, body-hugging dresses with zip-around details, quilted track pants or slouchy denim with turn-back duotone floral cuffs are all both standout and commercial pieces.

Detail is key. Hoods are attached to silk chiffon dresses, silk scarves are looped through viscose rib-knits and epaulettes through shoulders. Those aforementioned zips and press studs are also included to “allow the wearer to adjust clothes for versatility of use and fit”. And while it’s as 2024 as it could possibly be, the archive references are clear. Zip used at pockets and openings on coats, jackets and trousers reference a 1920s women’s archive ski suit and the placement of zips on the thighs of trousers alludes to vintage flying suits. 

Tailoring is a big part of the offer, inspired by the ultimate British fashion archive, Savile Row. Jackets have peak lapels and an hourglass waist. Prince of Wales and houndstooth check jacquards are “reconsidered, recoloured, magnified and warped”. Knitwear is traditional with a modern twist as Prince of Wales check and argyle intarsia knits, cricket sweaters and sweater dresses “are rooted in the familiar” but “refreshed”.

As for the accessories, the Knight bag family with its bridled horse clip expands to various sizes, a puffy leather design and a new bucket bag in shearling. The Shield Sling bag comes in crinkled leather or jacquard, woven with Prince of Wales check. There’s a new Shield tote in quilted leather with EKD-embossed details and a new Muff bag in leather. Meanwhile the collection is big on materials statements for footwear. Sweep pumps have a knit trim, Ruff sandals come with metallic-knit uppers, while trainers and Creeper shoes have check-knit uppers.It should all fly off the shelves.

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